Wednesday, June 16, 2021

Black Canyon of the Gunnison: North Rim

We stayed in Paonia for the first night of our southwestern Colorado road trip so that we would have easy access to the North Rim of Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. We checked into the Bross Hotel in Paonia at 4 pm and, after dropping our luggage off in our room, headed to the North Rim.

The last several miles to the Rim Road and ranger station are unpaved well-graded gravel and were easily traversed in early June. We only passed on vehicle on the way in (the ranger was on the way out) and we passed one other vehicle on the way out at around 8 pm that night.

There is eventually a "T" intersection in the gravel road in which turning right takes one to the ranger station and campground and turning left takes one to the overlooks on the North Rim's Rim Road.

We arrived at the North Rim Ranger Station just before 5 pm, but it was already closed (the website states that the North Rim Ranger Station is "open intermittently in the summer and closed in the winter"). We used the self-pay station to pay the $30 admission fee.

 

North Vista Trail to Exclamation Point

We then started on the North Vista Trail to Exclamation Point because that trail's trailhead is in the immediate vicinity of the North Rim Ranger Station (very close to the vault toilet).

The first part of the trail is faily open as this photograph shows (the ranger station and trailhead are at the top of the photograph).

Much of the hike has trees, but you start to see the canyon before you get to the trees.

Once you enter the trees, the views of the canyon are partially or even wholly obscured at times, but there are points where the canyon comes into full view again.

We stopped hiking the North Vista Trail (and turned around to go back) at Exclamation Point.

We weren't the only ones enjoying the views from Exclamation Point.

After enjoying the views from Exclamation Point, we returned on the North Vista Trail in to our vehicle parked at the trailhead in front of the ranger station.

We started the North Vista Trail hike to Exclamation Point around 5 pm on a Monday evening in early June and we saw only only seven other people (a single man jogging the trail, a single man hiking the trail, and a family of five with three young children) on the trail during the hike to and from Exclamation Point.

 

Chasm View Trail

The Chasm View Trail is a short loop trail near the North Rim campgrounds. We drove through those campgrounds and parked on the edge of them to start the Chasm View Trail. Over half of the first-come, first serve North Rim Campground camping spots appeared to be claimed and they looked like nice camping spots with lots of trees.

The short Chasm View Trail is a relatively short look with only a little elevation change, so it may be preferable to the North Vista Trail for those looking for a quicker or easier hike with similarly magestic views.

 

North Rim Overlooks

There are five overlooks on the North Rim's Rim Road (ordered from closest to ranger station to furthest from ranger station):

All of these overlooks are fairly easily and quickly accessed from each trailhead at Rim Road and require relatively short walking distances.

We visited all five overlooks and did not encounter even one other individual at any of the overlooks in the Monday evening hours that we were there! It felt like we had the park to ourselves.

The North Rim's Rim Road overlooks do not have the formal marked parking spots that the South Rim's overlooks have. Instead, the overlooks on the North Rim's Rim Road have extra pull-over space near each overlook's trailhead for parking. If this area was busy, parking could be difficult for some of the overlooks, but we had each pull-over area to ourselves at each of the overlooks.

The Narrows View

Balanced Rock View

Big Island View

Island Peaks View

Kneeling Camel View

The next photograph was taken directly from Rim Road (one of the advantages of driving the only vehicle on Rim Road is the ability to stop and take such a photograph!):

With so few other people at the North Rim, we were able to hike the North Vista Trail and the Chasm View Trail and were able to visit all five overlook points in three hours (5 pm to 8 pm) on a Monday evening in early June.

It was amazing to have this part of the national park almost to ourselves in the same summer as the well-advertised overcrowding at other national parks such as Rocky Mountain National Park.

As we were driving back toward Crawford on our way back to Paonia, we saw a deer cross the road in front of us and leap the fence on the other side of the road after it had crossed the road. We had the North Rim of Black Canyon of the Gunnison almost entirely to ourselves and it was fantastic.

Tuesday, June 15, 2021

Southwest Colorado Road Trip: Lodging

We lodged at a different location on each of the five nights of our southwest Colorado road trip during the second week of June. This post provides reviews and highlights from each of these five establishments.

We stayed in the following establishments in the following towns and cities:

Bross Hotel (Paonia, Colorado)

The Bross Hotel is a bed and breakfast in the small town of Paonia.

This beautiful home is over 115 years old and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

The large home is within easy walking distance of the downtown's main street (Grand Avenue).

Each of the rooms in this home feature a custom decoration style and a private bathroom. The individual rooms are each described (including a photograph) on the Bross Hotel website. We enjoyed staying in the Blueberry Hill Room (room #9) on the third floor. We were able to take a peek at some of the other rooms on the third floor that were rented and they were each individually and tastefully decorated.

The time for breakfast at Bross Hotel is arranged with the innkeepers at check-in. There are two choices for start time when there are many guests or just one set time when there are fewer guests (the case when we were there). Breakfast was at 8:30 am and was excellent. It included a fruit bowl and orange-flavored French toast with sausage balls made from local sausage. The breakfast was heartier than we normally eat and that worked out well for that day in which we'd be doing a lot of hiking on the South Rim of Black Canyon of the Gunnison.

We stayed at the Bross Hotel on our first night after covering the North Rim of Black Canyon of the Gunnison and then the next morning traveled to the South Rim of Black Canyon of the Gunnison after breakfast.

Hampton Inn Montrose (Montrose, Colorado)

We selected the Hampton Inn Montrose for our lodging the night after a day at the South Rim of Black Canyon of the Gunnison. It was exactly what one expects with a Hampton Inn and there is value to that consistency. The room seemed clean and was comfortable and quiet even though the hotel is near the Montrose Regional Airport. The large hotel with a swimming pool is located on Townsend, a major artery in Montrose.

Due to COVID-19 precautions and protocols, we lined up for breakfast and requested what we wanted from the employee who would then bring it to our chosen table in the dining area. We had the breakfast platters (meat, egg, and potatoes) and fruit and toasted bagel. Although this approach to breakfast required a bit more time than the self-serve buffet, it took only a few extra minutes.

The Hampton Inn does not have the same historic charm as the older houses we stayed at on this trip, so I didn't take photographs of it. However, there are numerous images of it available in the website's gallery.

St. Elmo Hotel (Ouray, Colorado)

The Historic St. Elmo Hotel is located on Ouray's Main Street.

St. Elmo Hotel is located toward the opposite end of Main Street from the Ouray Hot Springs (nearer to Box Cañon Falls entrance).

This historic house features ten rooms (including one large ground room floor right off the main lobby).

Like the lobby, the rooms feature historic decorations and furniture. We stayed in Room #4 on the second floor. The St. Elmo Hotel website features photographs and descriptions of each of its ten rooms.

Breakfast was served in the morning during an advertised hour and the small dining area got fairly full of guests early in the hour. We were able to select the main prepared food items (breakfast meat, eggs, potatoes) we wanted from the servers and then there were several other sides and milk and orange juice that we could help ourselves to. Because of the limited seating, we had another couple join us at our four-person table and it was interesting to get to know this couple from Texico that has been riding motorcycles across southern Utah and Colorado.

St. Elmo's Hotel is located very near Artisan Bakery, so we picked up breakfast sandwiches on bagels for a later lunch before leaving Ouray.

Silverton Inn of the Rockies at Historic Alma House (Silverton, Colorado)

Formerly a boarding house for miners run by Bridget Hughes, the historic Alma House is a beautiful building built in the very late 1800s and opened in the very early 1900s. It has a great location with close proximity to the main street (Greene Street) in Silverton but in a quiet area 1 1/2 small blocks from Greene Street (on 10th Street between Empire Street and Mineral Street).

We stayed in Room 10 (The Caboose), a large room on the main floor. This large room includes gorgeous period fixtures and antiques and feels like staying in early 1900s luxury.

We enjoyed a quiet night and woke up to very tasty miniature muffins left outside of our door in the morning.

We had scheduled the time for our breakfast at check-in. The beautiful dining area was just a few steps from our room.

The atmosphere for breakfast was great and the food was even better. This is one of the best looking and best tasty breakfasts we have had. It was not surprising to learn that Albert had gotten up several hours earlier to prepare this fine breakfast.

Betty and Albert are friendy hosts who made us feel very welcome.

Browns Canyon Inn (Salida, Colorado)

The last night of our Colorado road trip was spent at Browns Canyon Inn on the relatively busy Rainbow Boulevard. This hotel has a good location and was clean and comfortable. It was relatively unremarkable, but our ground floor room facing the street was quieter than I expected and the air conditioner made the night comfortable. The most interesting part of the hotel visually is the lobby (the hotel's photograph gallery gives a pretty good indication of the facilities). We left really early the next morning and the breakfast was the least remarkable of the breakfasts we had during this road trip (I read that this was due to the COVID-19 pandemic).

Conclusion

We were happy with all of our lodging choices on this trip, but out favorite lodging choices were the bed and breakfast establishments with their historical charm and personal nature. All provided good locations for basing our activities in their respecteive towns and cities. The breakfasts at the Hampton Inn (Montrose) and at the St. Elmo Hotel (Ouray) were good and the breakfasts at Bross Hotel (Paonia) and Silvertoon Inn of the Rockies were outstanding.

Monday, June 14, 2021

First Southwest Colorado Road Trip

Andy Rose opens the article "National park visitors surge as Covid-19 pandemic restrictions wane" with this statement, "After more than a year of pandemic-related restrictions and limited travel, surging attendance figures across US national parks show Americans are eager to get back on the road and explore." Not only do the national parks provide significant outdoor activities, but their presence across the nation means that one or mose is readily reached through via automobiles and road trips for many residents of the United States.

We love visiting Rocky Mountain National Park and its bookend towns (Estes Park and Grand Lake), but we wanted to visit a nearby national park that is not as busy and Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park appeared to be just that. We designed a simple southwest Colorado road trip based on Black Canyon of the Gunnison and will use a series of blog posts to describe our experiences on that road trip that provided our first experiences with several southwest Colorado towns.

This five-nights road trip in southwest Colorado occurred during the second week of June and that turned out to be a great time of year for it. The early summer weather was warm during the day but not nearly as hot as it would be a week or two later. We also traveled Monday through Saturday, which meant that most of our activities were during the week and that helped reduce crowd sizes.

Perhaps best of all, Black Canyon of the Gunnison and most of the towns we traveled through were new to us. As much as we love Estes Park, Grand Lake, Georgetown, Idaho Springs, Breckenridge, and other Colorado mountain towns we have visited multiple times, it was nice to experience some other fun mountain towns in Colorado. While planning this road trip, we learned that "Colorado contains more land area over 10000 feet than all the other states combined" and this road trip allowed us to see some parts of that we had not seen before.

Here are posts with additional details and photographs related to specific locations and activities in southwest Colorado:

Kicking off the Road Trip

We started our road trip with one of the longest segments that took us from the Denver metropolitan area to Black Canyon of the Gunnison's North Rim and to Paonia.

To get there, we drove I-70 west from the Denver area to Glenwood Springs and then drove into nearby town Carbondale.

We planned to stop in Carbondale to eat lunch (it's about 3.5 hours drive from Denver) and were surprised that there was more to this town than we had expected.

We ended up eating lunch outdoors at the Village Smithy restaurant where we tried the Asian salad and Smithy Club sandwich. The side selected for the club sandwhich was the chickpea salad, which was an excellent combination of chickpeas, tomatoes, cucumbers, feta cheese, and green olives.

After lunch, we left Carbondale to head to Black Canyon of the Gunnison's North Rim for our first major attraction of this roadtrip.

The route from Carbondale to Paonia was new to us and is gorgeous.

We did not have time on this southwest Colorado roadtrip to see some other well-known southwest Colorado attractions (including Mesa Verde National Park and Canyons of the Ancients National Monument) and towns (including Telluride and Durango), but plan to visit and experience them in the near future. We were fortunate on this road trip to experience four of the towns on Travel + Leisure's list of "10 Best Small Towns in Colorado" (Carbondale, Paonia, Silverton, and Salida).